I begin today’s review column with some information I
share each year relating to clones of Chardonnay and the history of such in the
U.S.
The pursuit of complex, enjoyable Chardonnay at an
affordable price has been a major enterprise of the American wine industry for
at least six decades. UC Davis
originally classified and propagated Chardonnay clones suited for the warm
California growing season, recommending the Wente Clone (2A), Clone 4 (Martini
clone), Davis (UCD) 108 and others.
These clones are mid to late-ripening and are not especially suited to
cool climates like Oregon or the coastal valleys of California.
In 1974, David Adelsheim went to Burgundy to discover
the secrets of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir production there and came away
realizing that Oregon needed new Chardonnay clones more suited to the cool,
western Oregon growing season. In 1977,
clones selected by Raymond Bernard of the Dijon office of the French Ministry
of Agriculture were imported to Oregon for evaluation under quarantine. It would not be until the early 1990s that
these “Dijon” clones were accepted as a distinct improvement and widespread
planting begun.
J. Christopher Winery 2017 Chardonnay, Chehalem Mountains AVA - $45
Winemaker/owner Jay Somers offers several small lot
Chardonnays – each with distinctive
character and style. This bottling was the
favorite of my most recent tasting panel. The fruit came from Olenik Vineyard
in the Chehalem Mountains AVA, originally planted to the Wente clone of
Chardonnay in 1989, but added with three Dijon clones at a later date. Enjoy
aromas and flavors of complex tropical fruits, pear and apple with spicy
vanilla on the finish – excellent structure and acidity. Jay is partners with Ernst Loosen of the famed Dr. Loosen winery in Germany. Jchristopherwines.com
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| Jay Somers and Ernst Loosen |
Domaine Jolly et Fils 2017 Petit Chablis, France -
$18
With four generations of experience, Domaine Jolly et
Fils is known for producing traditional, mineral-driven Chablis wines. This
Petit Chablis offers citrus aromas and favors with a backbone of mineral and
hints of spice. An excellent food wine and an affordable introduction to
Chablis style wines.
Willamette Valley Vineyards 2015 Chardonnay, Bernau
Block - $45
Winery founder Jim Bernau planted Dijon clone
Chardonnay vines over 20 years ago and thus became one of the pioneers that has
boosted premium Oregon Chardonnay into the upper tiers of American Chardonnay.
The wine was barrel fermented and aged in French oak, 30% new. Aromas and flavors
of green apple, tangerine and orchard blossom weave through notes of honey and
baking spice – great with seafoods of all types. Wvv.com
Ruby Vineyard 2016 Chardonnay, Willamette Valley -
$29
This is classic Northwest Chardonnay showing apple
and pear with notes of stone fruits, citrus and spice. The wine finishes with
just a hint of spicy vanilla marshmallow giving a sipping dimension to the
crisp acidity on the palate.
L’Ecole No 41 2017 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley - $20
Winemakers from pioneering winery L’Ecole No 41
sourced Chardonnay fruit from cooler site vineyards in the Yakima and northern
Columbia Valley AVAs. Schmitt and Oasis Vineyards in the Yakima Valley provide
tropical fruit character while the Evergreen Vineyard Chardonnay contributes crisp
acidity and minerality. Look for toasty notes of baked apple and vanilla on the
nose with round flavors of apple, pear, lemon and creamy brioche enticing the
palate to another sip. Lecole.com
Mercer Estates 2016 Chardonnay, Horse Heaven Hills – $14
The Mercer family has been farming in Eastern
Washington for well over 100 years with recent efforts in grape growing and
wine making going back to the 1980s. This luscious Chardonnay from select
vineyards on the Horse Heaven Hills offers ripe apple and pear along with
honeydew melon, vanilla cream and toasted marshmallow. Crisp, natural acidity
gives the wine a food friendly finish. Mercerwines.com
Beringer Winery 2016 Chardonnay, Private Reserve,
Napa Valley - $48
Beringer’s Gamble Ranch Vineyard near Yountville is
the source of fruit for their Reserve Chardonnay. Cooling breezes help the
grapes preserve natural acidity that keep the wine in balance and add to a
fresh, crisp mouthfeel. Look for aromas
of ripe stone fruits, tropical peach and pineapple, and creamy vanilla with
flavors of toasty oak, buttery vanilla and barrel spice corral the ripe fruit
on the palate. Beringer.com
Dr. Frederic Stern is a well-known cosmetic surgeon
in the Seattle area who has turned his passion for fine wine into Noviello
Vineyards Winery with a location near Lake Chelan under development. Winemaker
for Noviello is Charlie Hoppes, longtime Washington craftsman of excellent
vintages. This light Chardonnay from French Creek Vineyard offers aromas and
flavors of lemon, pear and vanilla to accompany your lighter meals of summer.
Noviellovineyards.com
Qupé 2016 Chardonnay, Santa Barbara County - $22
Fruit for this Santa Barbara Chardonnay came from the
Bien Nacido Vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley, primarily from the Y Block – a
15 acre block planted exclusively for Qupé in 2005. The block is planted to
Chardonnay clone 4 (Wente) and two Dijon clones: 76 and 96.
Enjoy aromas and flavors of ripe apple, pear and
citrus nicely framed with beautiful French oak. www.qupe.com
Rolling Bay Winery 2017 Chardonnay, Upland Vineyards
- $36
Grapes for Rolling Bay Chardonnay come from the
Upland Vineyard on Snipes Mountain in the central Yakima Valley. Grapes were first planted here in 1917 and
are the oldest wine grape vines in Washington State. Winemaker Alphonse deKlerk aged this vintage
for 10 months sur lie, crafting a favorite Chardonnay of my tasters offering
apple, pear, citrus and notes of vanilla and baking spices. Rollingbaywinery.com
Steele Wines 2017 Chardonnay, Parmelee Hill Vineyard - $30
All of Jed Steele’s vineyard-designated Chardonnays
are barrel fermented in French oak. Each vintage they use 30% new barrels and
age the wine in barrel for 10 to 12 months. These super premium Chardonnays
offer balance and character that includes food-friendly acidity to match your
best poultry, fish and shellfish. Look
for tropical aromas and flavors of mango, melon and peach with finishing notes
of creamy apple, butterscotch and toasty oak. Steelewines.comHope Estate 2016 Chardonnay, Hunter Valley, Australia – $14
My wine tasters happily said “G’Day” to this
value-priced and flavorful Chardonnay from Australia’s Hunter Valley region.
Michael Hope’s Mountain Wash Vineyard lies directly under the Wollemi range
taking advantage of millions of years of nutrients washing down into the site
on which the vineyard was planted. Enjoy
ripe peach and pear within a corral of tangy citrus fruits and pleasant accents
of vanilla and toasty oak. Hopeestate.com
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