Pinot Noir with Copper River Salmon - Part 2

Little Tidbits about Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir is a hard grape to grow, and it is a hard wine to make well. It is often too “weak” for Cabernet lovers to enjoy with their steaks, but it rewards subtle foods and preparations with complexity, good acidity and balance. It is the favorite red wine of mature and experienced wine tasters – especially with salmon!

So you have pulled the cork on a Pinot Noir, and it smells like latex gloves or has hints of sulfury funk. This variety is prone to a condition called “reduction” which occurs when a wine is kept from oxygen contact during aging. Usually you can just decant the wine with aeration (splashing) and the funk will breathe off. In severe cases it won’t.

When winemakers try to please Cabernet lovers with their Pinot Noir bad things can happen. Wines labeled “Reserve” are often overripe and have been exposed to excessive new oak aging. True Pinot Noir lovers eschew such wines and would rather have a more delicate and complex bottling.

Pinot Noir also has a seemingly magical quality to change hue (light to dark or vice versa), or to evolve in the bottle during aging to show lighter or heavier character. The color thing is related to pH (hydrogen ion concentration) and is best left to physicists to explain. The change in taste character is just a quirk of the variety – just accept it as one of the miracles of nature.

Now that I’m done whining about Pinot Noir’s little idiosyncrasies, let’s pull some corks, bring on the salmon and enjoy!

Willamette Valley Vineyards 2017 Pinot Noir, Whole Cluster, WV - $24

Whole cluster fermentation of Pinot Noir has become quite popular with many wineries, leading to bright and juicy wines that are enjoyable at a young age. Willamette Valley Vineyards has been using this technique longer than most and my tasters always find this wine a first class pairing with salmon.  You’ll enjoy the aromas and flavors of cherry, juicy plum, cocoa and vanilla.

Brooks Wines 2016 Pinot Noir, Janus, Willamette Valley - $40

Named after the Roman god of beginnings, transitions and doorways, the two faced god is often associated with balance.  This reserve style wine (see notes above on decanting for aeration) benefits greatly from breathing and demonstrates many of the Pinot Noir principles discussed today.  Once the wine has opened up, you discover aromas and flavors of ripe black cherry and plum with notes of mineral and earth with a finish of cedar, vanilla, cherry candy and barrel spice.

Daffodil 2015 Pinot Noir, Eola Amity Hills, Daffodil Hill Vineyard - $40

This Pinot Noir from the volcanic soils of the Eola Hills comes from the Daffodil Hill Vineyard northeast of Rickreall in the heart of the appellation. The vineyard is dry farmed giving the wine an ultimate expression of terroir. Whole berry fermentation and aging in neutral French oak create dark berry and spicy plum flavors with hints of citrus and mineral.

Panther Creek Cellars 2015 Pinot Noir, Kalita Vineyard - $50

This wine was made from grapes grown at Kalita Vineyard in the heart of Oregon’s Yamhill-Carlton District. The vineyard is planted exclusively to Pinot Noir including Pommard clone and three Dijon clones, all on resistant rootstock. Look for aromas and flavors of ripe black cherry, pomegranate and spice with notes of violets and orchard blossom, good balance and impeccable structure make this a hit with salmon from the grill.

Archery Summit 2015 Pinot Noir, Arcus Vineyard, Dundee Hills - $125

This more powerful and intense Pinot Noir was crafted from grapes grown at Archery Summit’s Arcus Vineyard. Deep fruit aromas and flavors of blackberry, dark cherry and cranberry mingle with hints of floral perfume and spice. The wine was aged in French oak – 40% new -  and thus carries notes of caramel, toast and cocoa in the finish.

Sokol Blosser 2016 Pinot Noir, Estate, Dundee Hills - $40

This pioneer winery of Oregon’s Dundee Hills wine region evokes fond memories in old timer wine buffs throughout the Northwest. A taste of this wine brings back the aromas and flavors of the heady days when Oregon’s wine industry was new and excitement accompanied every visit to the wine country. Look for aromas and flavors of dark cherry and raspberry with notes of earthy mineral, baking spices and hints of citrus and toasty oak.

La Crema 2016 Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley - $40

La Crema Winery has dedicated more than 30 years to exploring the depth and breadth of varietal expression of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay in many of California’s cool-climate vineyards.   The 2016 Pinot Noir from the Russian River Valley in Sonoma County offers aromas of red cherries, raspberry and vanilla with notes of black tea and mineral.  The palate expands to show cherry, cola and spice with hints of earth and chocolate.

Broadley Vineyards 2017 Pinot Noir, Estate, WV - $35

Of all the winery and vineyard success stories in Oregon, I remain most impressed with Broadley Vineyards. Founded in the early 1980s, the winery has successfully transitioned winemaking and management to the next generation, son Morgan Broadley and his wife Jessica. Dedication to quality and consistency is the order of the day. Enjoy this perfectly balanced Pinot Noir with salmon – just the right intensity of cherry and berry with hints of oak and earthy mineral.

Panther Creek Cellars 2017 Pinot Noir, Winemakers Cuvee - $25

This entry level Pinot Noir is a blend of wines from some of Panther Creek’s famous single vineyard sources. Winemaker Tony Rynders aged the cuvee in French oak – 39% new – to create a toasty structure surrounding fruit components of strawberry, dark cherry and black currant with notes of tobacco and coffee on the finish.  The winery tasting room – once located in Oregon’s Willamette Valley – now offers its wines for tasting in Woodinville, Washington at the Hollywood Corner neighborhood wine village.

Brandborg Winery 2017 Pinot Noir, Bench Lands, Umpqua Valley - $22

Terry Brandborg’s Bench Lands Pinot Noir from vineyard sites in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley is always enjoyed by my tasting panel. Classic Pinot Noir aromas of red cherry, blueberry and cranberry mingle with herbs and floral perfume. On the palate red berries and cherries lead to notes of citrus, cocoa and tobacco – a delightful Pinot and a good value.

Youngberg Hill 2015 Pinot Noir, Natasha, WV - $50

Wayne and Nicolette Bailey purchased Youngberg Hill Winery in 2003, and undertook extensive renovations in all areas of winegrowing, winemaking and hospitality. This selection is from the 6.6 acre Natasha block planted own-root to 60% Pommard and 40% Wadenswil clones – now 28 years old. Enjoy aromas and flavors of cassis and dark cherry with notes of cranberry, plum, lime zest and floral perfume.