Versatile Chardonnay - Part 4

Reserve Chardonnays

It’s hard to tell these days if a wine labeled ‘Reserve’ is actually something special or whether it is just a part of the producer’s marketing gambit. There are no laws or regulations concerning the use of ‘reserve’ in a wine name, so it is difficult to tell if it really means something by glancing at the label. Fortunately, the winery usually tells you if it means something and, if so, what it signifies.

For Chardonnays, reserve usually means better fruit sources (single vineyard perhaps) and barrel fermentation with aging in (some) new oak barrels. Wines of this type most often have aromas of oak, butter and vanilla, hopefully wafting among rich and complex tropical fruits scents. Similarly, the palate will offer ripe fruit flavors with rich buttery vanilla and oak notes.  The best Reserve Chardonnays will also have balancing acidity and notes of mineral on the finish.

Since new barrels cost money and extra aging time costs money, you will discover that truly “Reserve” Chardonnays top $30 or more in price. Most experienced wine lovers find this added expense acceptable IF the wine is balanced, complex and food friendly.

Chehalem 2016 Chardonnay, Ian’s Reserve - $40

The winemakers at Chehalem/Stoller crafted this wine from grapes grown at the Stoller Vineyard in the Dundee Hills AVA. The wine was fermented in 100% French oak and aged in French oak barrels, 44% new. From an early and warm vintage, the wine offers aromas of lemon curd, brioche and citrusy vanilla. On the palate one finds flavors of tropical citrus and stone fruits with ample toasty oak and a nice mineral/acid finish. Chehalemwines.com

Mercer 2016 Reserve Chardonnay, Horse Heaven Hills - $30

From the Zephyr Ridge Vineyard in Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills AVA, this wine was fermented in French oak and aged in 50% new French oak (see a pattern developing here?). Barrels were inoculated for ML (malolactic fermentation) to help create a creamy mouth feel. Look for aromas and flavors of baked apple, creamy citrus and ample butterscotch and notes of toasty oak. www.mercerwine.com

 

Browne Family Vineyards 2015 Chardonnay - $25

Browne Family Vineyards was “inspired by the greatness of one man: William Bitner Browne, grandfather of proprietor Andrew Browne.” Integrity and excellence are also Andrew’s keys to success as owner of Precept Brands. This reserve-style Chardonnay bursts with tropical fruits and oodles of toasty vanilla, coconut and a finish of mineral and citrus zest. Brownefamilyvineyards.com

Beringer 2017 Luminus Chardonnay, Oak Knoll - $39

Sourced from Beringer’s Big Ranch Vineyard in the southern (cooler) Napa Valley, production of this wine followed many of the same techniques described above, though the wine was specifically kept from malolactic fermentation (the hope being that more food friendly acidity will be preserved). On both the nose and palate the wine is lively and fresh, offering citrus and orchard blossom to mingle with nectarine, butterscotch, pear and baking spice. www.beringer.com

Dry Creek Vineyard 2017 Chardonnay - $34

The cool Russian River Valley has become a go-to location for growing Chardonnay and Pinot Noir in Sonoma County. A warm growing season brought in an early harvest for Dry Creek’s Estate Block 10 with slightly lower yields, but very high quality. Look for baked pear and apple with butterscotch on the nose and a mouth-filling palate adding baking spice and hints of stone fruits.

Three Rivers Winery 2017 Reserve Chardonnay - $29

Three Rivers Winery is a popular destination for wine touring as you enter the Walla Walla Valley. The winery grounds offer visitors an opportunity for picnicking and yard games, and the tasting room has a wide variety of tasting options. Three Rivers Reserve Chardonnay has been a favorite of my tasters for many years offering aromas and flavors of creamy brioche, pear, tropical fruits and zesty mineral. Threeriverwinery.com

Steele 2017 Chardonnay, Durell Vineyard, Carneros - $38

Durell Vineyard is in a warmer location in the foothills of the Mayacamas Mountains at the northern boundary of the Carneros Appellation. Chardonnays from this site show citrus, pear and mango flavors combined with ripe stone fruits, vanilla, toasty oak and crisp mineral on the finish.

Emblem 2017 Chardonnay - $35

This wine hails from the Petaluma Gap AVA, a part of Sonoma County where a break in the coast range mountains permits cooling fog and wind to moderate the summer heat, allowing grapes to retain natural acidity and gain complexity during a longer ripening period. Though ‘reserve’ doesn’t appear on the label, the wine has both pedigree of place and care in production for inclusion in the category. Look for fragrant aromas of Fuji and Honeycrisp apples with hints of mineral and vanilla. The palate offers baked apple, toasty vanilla and crisp citrus notes on the finish.

Other Chardonnay Selections

Matanzas Creek 2017 Chardonnay, Alexander Valley - $26

This wine – crafted from five clones of Chardonnay – offers complex fruit flavors accented by character from fermentation and aging in French oak barrels. Look for ripe nectarine and peach with lemon and mineral. Notes of vanilla cookie, almond and toasted walnuts add to a creamy finish.

Lafond Winery 2017 Chardonnay, Santa Rita Hills - $24

Lafond offers wine country visitors a choice of two experiences: the winery and vineyard is in the Santa Rita Hills as a reward for a longish, beautiful drive. The winery tasting room in Santa Barbara is in the popular “Funk Zone” right by the beach. Enjoy Lafond Chardonnay for aromas and flavors of ripe pear and tropical fruits with a layer of vanilla and a kiss of zesty mineral.

Eberle Winery 2017 Chardonnay, Estate, Paso Robles - $24

Eberle Chardonnay combines the bright fruit character of the Paso Robles coastal area with complex buttery oak to please aficionados of each component.  Look for crisp green apple, zesty Meyer lemon, and tropical pineapple with a finish of toasty oak. The winery suggests pairing with grilled salmon or chicken piccata.